Completion of Gaza Trip.
CONVOY TO GAZA (AUG 2010) – REPORT.
*Wed 04/08/10. By train/tube from St Albans to London City Airport.
Night Spent in LCY airport.
*Thurs 05/08/10. 06.00h SWISS flight to Cairo via Zurich.
Unnecessary and officious baggage/immigration check while in transit through Zurich Airport. Up-graded on section Zurich to Cairo which compensated, to some extent, for problems experienced at Zurich. In Cairo, found that baggage had been detained in Zurich. It would arrive on same flight, the next day.
Q. Was baggage detained by Zurich security because of my Cairo/Gaza destination?
Met at Cairo airport. Driven to Hotel Zoser (Giza) not Hotel Pharoah Palace (near Airport) as previously informed.
Q. If I had missed “welcome party” how could I know to go to Hotel Zoser (no local mobile)? Why were arrangements changed at the last moment?
Met members of Group and was instructed to be ready to move on to Al-Arish by 09.00h next morning so no chance to collect my baggage next day. Left “paperwork” with hotel reception to have my baggage sent there – until I would return from Gaza. During dinner, I was required for briefing for following day. Returned to dining room to find buffet dinner (already paid for) had been cleared away!
Night spent at Cairo. (Hotel Zoser, Giza) All costs paid by me. Money (USD 60 = GBP 40 B&B) paid to a Group member who issued receipt (on behalf of Hotel?).
*Fri 06/08/10. All party travelled to Al-Arish by special coach. First police escort was from Cairo, second from North Sinai border to Al-Arish. Stopped for prayers en route. At Al-Arish, coach stopped at beach holiday resort hotel, at start of town.
Hotel cost per night was stated as USD 120 (B&B?) – per person, sharing. Some of party agree, some (mostly 10 Turks) refuse. Some (including me) are not sure. Rate comes down (after some have agreed USD 120!). Others appear to agree at USD 90, then others at USD 60! More than ONE HOUR later, Turks still refuse to get off bus! They want cheap hotel in town centre. Group Leader agrees that I will go into town with Turks and report to him if there are any problems. I would contact him next morning, in any case. Turks and I go into town on the coach which takes us to Sinai Stars Hotel (B&B USD 15 for my single room: less for Turks, sharing!). No problem exploring Al-Arish without “escort” (eg ATM machine responds positively to my UK Co-op Bank card).
Night spent in Al-Arish (Sinai Stars Hotel). All costs were paid by me – except for coach journey, from Cairo to Al-Arish, for which no charge was made.
Note: Some people (including Turks) on coach were not evident at hotel in Cairo.
Sat 07/08/10.
Difficulty in contacting main group at Beach Resort Hotel because the hotel register states only first two names on the passport: the family name was not recorded. Furthermore, many of our group were only known to me by the familiar Arabic which relates not to the family but to the name of the first child (Abu Mazin etc) and these were not recognised at all – by the receptionist at the resort. Fortunately, the Turks were better informed. The vehicles were now on board (two) small freighters, as deck cargo from Alexandria [Were they insured for this kind of transportation?] but could not yet dock at al-Arish as none of the (3) berths there was free.
A small group of dignitaries (House of Lords etc), went on directly to Rafah. This may have been on the previous afternoon (Friday) but was, in any case, before the vehicles arrived at al-Arish.
I visited the Municipality in Al-Arish but there was no-one present (due to Ramadan) except the Mayor’s Secretary. Day spent in al-Arish, waiting for news. Informed that ships might dock the following day.
Found ATM machine which accepted my UK Co-op Bank card.
Night spent in Al-Arish (Sinai Stars Hotel). All costs paid by me
Sun 08/08/10.
Found small Coptic church and attended Mass. Not sure if it was Eastern or Western rite but very interesting.
Ships docked and port started off-loading vehicles but not possible to get them out of port today. Informed that they could be out by 06:00 h tomorrow.
Visited site of old railway station. New line from Cairo (including world’s biggest Swin-Bridge, over Suez Canal) is almost complete but will not use same station site. Inspected wadi to the East of al-Arish. This must be a frightening site when a serious storm occurs. Parts of destroyed buildings could be seen protruding from the wadi bed.
Invited to join group members at restaurant in fish market but found attitudes too overbearing (although many of them had been born in the Middle East, I believe I have much more experience of area. I excused myself and then met the Turks who invited me to join them in a meal which I did.
Night spent in Al-Arish (Sinai Stars Hotel). All costs paid by me.
Mon 09/08/10.
Went to port at 06:00 h. Informed that vehicles would be released by 10:00h.
At 10:00, vehicles still not available but later were gradually released so that the convoy was ready to leave around mid-afternoon. Volunteers were called for to drive the vehicles. I offered but others were selected. I was told by more than one driver that it was the first time that s/he had driven a motor vehicle – of any kind! I hope this was a joke! I could not help but notice that all but three of the vehicles were essentially mini-buses with wheel-chair access ramps fitted for the rear doors. The three exceptions were Mercedes saloon car adaptations which still carried the previous operator’s name, “Emmaus”. None of the vehicles had a registration plate (or temporary trade plate) so this was presumably one reason why the Egyptian Authorities would not allow them to travel overland from Alexandria. It was probably also one of the reasons it took the group SEVEN HOURS to negotiate the border post at Rafah. Another reason might have been that I was probably the only group member who could trace grandparents to the UK! I am convinced that I could not have done any worse travelling alone.
Arriving at the Gaza side, numerous people with microphones asked for our comments. We were warmly welcomed by various officials then travelled directly to Gaza City. I heard that 3 of our vehicles had broken down or failed to start at al-Arish. I myself saw one being towed and another on a break-down truck. Anyway, I think all arrived and were handed over in a government compound in Gaza City.
There was no obvious checking of the vehicles either at Al-Arish or at Gaza City.
Night spent in Gaza City (Hilton Commodore Hotel). Informed our group leader that we were guests (of Gaza City Municipality?/Hamas?/Hilton Inc?) so no bill would be presented to me. As we had arrived late in the day, I accepted the invitation but for ONE NIGHT ONLY: as I did not personally know who was paying, I decided to move the next day. A “take-away” meal was brought in for “Iftar” – perhaps the kitchens were not operational, due to Ramadan?
Tues 10/08/10.
Moved to nearby hotel which turned out to be the place where I had stayed in 2003. Attempts were made to force me to return to the Commodore but eventually everyone agreed that it was a better arrangement to me (the only Christian?) to stay elsewhere.
Visited Gaza Port. Walked along the pier as far as the police post. I was told that, provided the approach channel is dredged regularly, ships of up to 7m draft could enter the port – but there are no facilities for cargo-handling. Some large chunks of rubble have been dumped on the outer slope of the sea-wall as wave protection. With a shallow foreshore, severe winds would give rise to very strong surf – the prow design of local boats supports this view.
Visited the old part of Gaza City, including the Orthodox church and the RC church and schools. This part of Gaza City is situated on higher ground, behind and above the more modern coastal strip. There is no evidence of town planning and the standard of living appeared much lower than that evidenced by the hotels and restaurants along the sea-front.
Shown various sites damaged by Israel in Dec08/Jan09. The first site was an isolated building on the sea-front. This appeared to have been used as “target practice” as nearby buildings were not touched. Next, we saw the area occupied by Ministry buildings. The damage here looked “personal”. I believe modern weapons can enter through a window space, follow the line of a corridor, enter “the third door on the left” then – bang! Throughout my trip, I was wary of being “tagged” or of unwittingly “tagging” someone else. While we were present, masonry collapsed from the top of one of these tall builings (15 – 20 stories?). We later made a tour round the eastern suburbs of Gaza City but did not visit either the UN school or the refugee camps where, I believe, most of the damage and casualties had occurred – and where people are still living in very difficult conditions.
The Group then visited the Parliament Building and the Official Residence of the Head of State in Gaza. Met the Speaker of the Parliament and then the Head of State in Gaza.
Night spent in Gaza City (Adam Hotel – next door to Hotel commodore). All costs paid by me.
Wed 11/08/10.
The Group visited the Islamic University of Gaza where the entire Engineering Faculty Block (including extensive laboratory testing facilities) had been destroyed by bombs. I myself had arrived separately, before the Group and succeeded in meeting some of the staff I had previously contacted by e-mail. I may have inadvertently irritated the President (of IUG) as I had been directed to wait in his office. He would not have been amused to find a “rag-a-muffin” sitting there (a bit like T.E. Lawrence) but, of course, I had been wearing the same cloths for a week by then!
An assembly of guests (Gazans plus Visitors) was addressed by various speakers. Unfortunately, I was obliged to leave the room when a “Mullah” from South Africa (Cape Town Malay Community?) began what was clearly a racially-inspired diatribe. The worst point of it was that the Palestinians would certainly consider themselves “white” rather than “black”. This same man had previously (at the Parliament meeting) attacked the rich –as exemplified by people who live in big houses and stay at fine hotels. He failed to add that he was staying at the “Commodore” but perhaps, if he was not paying the bill, that didn’t count!
Visited the site of the old Railway station (mahatta) in Gaza City. It is now a park with only the Station Master’s house remaining.
Night spent in Gaza City (Adam Hotel). All costs paid by me. [“Adam”, the father of humanity, means “dolphin” in Arabic so perhaps we did all come from the sea!]
Thurs 12/08/10.
I tried to make a visit to Khan Younis but was prevented from doing so (by Group Leaders and local “heavies”). When I threatened to contact to the British Consul (in Gaza City), it was agreed that I could go provided – as I MYSELF had suggested at the outset – that I took a “minder” with me. ONE HOUR was wasted until it was finally suggested what I myself had initially proposed!
We arrived at Khan Younis just in time to catch the Mayor. He had not been Mayor when I had visited in 2003 but he had been a member of the Council and remembered my visit. As it was the end of the working (half-day on Thursday), I said I would return on Saturday. In the meantime, I would visit the airport site and the hospital just outside Khan Younis – this was designed by a firm of Architects, based near my home.
I did not find the old railway station, in/near Khan Younis, which I had seen on my previous visit to Gaza.
I was horrified by what the Israelis had done to the airport – which had been funded by the EU/EC and therefore paid for by ME! I was also astonished to see that my “minder” had had no idea of what had been done to the airport, even though the whole Gaza Strip is only about 40km by 15km!
Locals indicated the presence of an unexploded bomb (UXB – no doubt intentionally installed there) within the ruins of the main building.
Returned to Gaza City via Khan Younis hospital which is now sponsored by the Govt of Libya and appears to be in good working order (including purpose-built ambulances). Two further events during journey back: 1) puncture which was repaired in Khan Younis and 2) driver collapsed over steering wheel – from fatigue due to Ramadan fasting (even from water, during August) and from celebrations (during night). Fortunately, my “minder” brought the taxi to a halt without harm occurring.
Met British Consular representative (Kamal M. Kalloub, MBE) and told him about UXB in airport building. He said there was a UK bomb disposal group in Gaza so he would ask them to take a look.
Found that I had mislaid my note-book – almost certainly while at the IUG. I was prevented (by group leaders) from contacting IUB or visiting to ask gate-keeper/receptionist/security if my note-book had been found. [I later thought that the note-book was actually with me but this turned out to be an older book. The result has been that I have been obliged to write this report largely from memory so some events may be incorrectly placed, chronologically – for instance, I also managed to get into the UNWRA compound but the Representative, John Ding, was absent: I met one of his Deputies. This may have been two days previously].
Night spent in Gaza City (Adam Hotel). All costs paid by me.
Fri 13/08/10.
When shops were open (after 10:00h) I went on foot to buy some small items. At a nearby supermarket, my Egyptian Pounds were refused – only Israeli Sheckles (or USD) would be accepted so I left without purchasing anything! I then found an ATM but as this only dispensed sheckles, I did not use it. The window of this small bank had been broken and, although I was told it was due to bomb blast, it looked to me more like the work of a dissatisfied customer. At this point, a pick-up arrived and “minders” escorted me back to the hotel. In the confusion, I think I left my (red) hat in the car.
At the Commodore Hotel, the next batch of Guests/Visitors/Tourists had arrived. In fact, there was a steady stream of Groups, like ours, visiting Gaza at that time. Perhaps we were encouraged “not to exceed our welcome” so that our hotel rooms could be taken up by the next group? However, there was still no sign of the sub-group of Turks: presumably they had made their own arrangements regarding accommodation and return transportation.
I was coerced into leaving Gaza with some of our group. I was told that we all had to travel together but this patently was NOT true! About half of the group (including ALL of the Turks) were missing. I had made arrangements to visit the Mayor at Khan Younis the next morning – perhaps that is why I was made to get on the bus to Rafah? I must complain that, at this point, I was singled out as a Christian and suffered complaints from the group as a whole (with a few exceptions, notably the people from Bahrain). This was a very unpleasant experience for me and quite uncalled for. Perhaps there were other problems concerning the visit (the bills from the Hotel Commodore perhaps?) and the easiest target was the only Christian present. I had gone along to all the official appointments but my understanding had been that I would go with the group but then have some time to follow my own interests. I do NOT accept that I was being “minded” for my own safety. I think I can confidently claim that I have as much experience of these situations (including control to the point of bullying) as anyone in our group – including our leader. This trip has cost me a lot of money. I wonder who was on an “all expenses paid” basis?
At the Gaza side of Rafah, someone wanted to take all our passports – contrary to FCO rules for UK travellers. I was thoroughly fed up by this time and was reluctant to hand over my passport, except to a uniformed official but eventually had to do so. The behaviour of the “fixer” was extremely dubious and our visit was not to encourage corruption of Gaza officials. As soon as I crossed to the Egyptian side, I left the group, made my own way through Immigration etc and took a taxi to Al-Arish, where I spent the evening in the company of the taxi-driver who arranged my transport for the following day.
Night spent in Al-arish (Sinai Stars Hotel). All costs paid by me.
[AS I HAD NOW DETACHED MYSELF FROM THE GROUP, MY REPORT RELATING TO MY SPONSOR ENDS AT THIS POINT. HOWEVER, FOR THE SAKE OF COMPLETENESS, I NOW ADD SOME NOTES RELATING TO THE REMAINDER OF MY TRIP UNTIL I REACHED MY HOME AGAIN].
Sat 14/08/10.
Took taxi, at 03:00h from Al-Arish to St Catherine’s.
Visited St Catherine’s (Orthodox) monastery – at time of Evening Prayers.
Made call home from PT office – to confirm my ETA at LCT airport.
Night Spent at St Katherine’s Monastery (Al-Muquddus Hotel). All costs paid by me.
Sun 15/08/10.
Took 06:00h bus from St Catherine’s to Cairo. Insisted on remaining on bus to the official terminus – avoiding enforced (un-metered) taxi trip. In confusion, left my laptop on the bus and spent several hours retrieving it, including persuading the tourist Police to force the bus company to locate the lap-top and bring it to the bus station (which they did). Finally, I avoided being kidnapped by another (un-metered) taxi, by escaping in a mini-bus!
Night spent at Cairo (Regent House Hotel). All Costs paid by me.
Mon 16/08/10.
Decided not to spend any further time in Cairo so re-booked to depart that afternoon. Apparently my ticket could be altered without further charge. However, at the airport, I was obliged to find another GBP 75. I had no choice but to pay as I had used up all spare time locating my suitcase which had been “retained” in Zurich, on the outward journey. I had been obliged to travel immediately to Al-arish , with Interpal so my case had remained at Cairo airport during my entire Gaza trip!
In the transfer train at Zurich, I was accosted, first by a woman shouting at me (I don’t know why but she turned out to be Israeli and I was carrying evidence of my visit to Gaza. Another woman joined in, shouting something about “Norway”! then a large Jewish man (beard, Homberg hat and belt tassels fell against me. I tried to get out of the train, as soon as the doors opened but another man (South African Jew?) tried to trip me up. When I got to the Immigration desk (Why was this necessary since I was in Transit?), I was detained and taken for questioning, just long enough for me to miss my connecting flight! It seems that the Israeli woman had accused me of “anti-semitic” abuse and spreading Palestinian propaganda. I was obliged to spend the night in the Transit Area (benches EUR 45! which I declined) and present myself again the following morning, which I did.
Night spent in Zurich Airport. All costs paid by me.
Tues 17/08/10.
Presented myself to Airport Police as requested (09:00h). Informed that there was no charge to answer and that I was free to go, on the next available flight. I requested identification of the Israeli (woman) who had been allowed to cause me so much trouble but was only given details of the officer who had questioned me and the office of the Police prosecutor. I determined to seek redress after returning home. The “Palestinian propaganda leaflets” were, in fact, a set of sketches (by David Roberts) of St Katherine’s Monastery and Mt. Sinai
Found that I had been booked (by Airport Police?) on a late-morning flight but decided to keep to my original booking to arrive at LCY, the following day. Looked for modest accommodation in Zurich but none could be found, due to International Athletics Meeting being held there, on that date. Spent the day in Zurich.
Night spent in Zurich airport. All costs paid by me.
Wed 18/08/10.
Returned to my original flight booking (Zurich – LCY). A further charge of GBP75 had to be paid – to return to my original booking! There was no time left to dispute this.
Night Spent at home. All costs paid by me.
Overall Conclusion(s).
1) Although this trip appeared to be poorly organised and proved to be very expensive for me, I do not regret having undertaken it. I was not able to fulfil many of my objectives but I did learn many other things – about Gaza (plus Egypt and Switzerland), about my companions and, most of all, about myself. I would like to take part in another visit but with a group of like-minded Engineers.
2) There are still many factions in Gaza, including the obvious disparity between Gaza City and Khan Younis (which, I was told, did not have a single hotel?). Within Gaza City itself, there appears to be a wide socio-economic range. If you have money, almost anything can be obtained. The affinity for the Israeli Sheckel (in Gaza City) was very surprising.
3) The R.C. church and schools appear to be surviving well. refurbishing was in progress using funds provided from th R.C. patriachate in Jerusalem. The schools (especially the girls secondary school) provide education for Moslem children as well as for the Christian minority.
4) It is my considered opinion (but based on intuition rather that observable facts) that Turkey will attack Israel (in one way or another), in the not-too-distant future.
Jim Naisbitt.